When it comes to skin health, sebum is often misunderstood. Many associate it with oily skin, clogged pores, or acne, but the truth is that sebum plays a vital role in maintaining a balanced, hydrated, and protected complexion. At Jil Goorman Beauty, we believe that education is the first step toward better skin—and that starts with understanding your skin’s natural oils.
In this deep dive, we’ll cover everything you need to know about sebum: what it is, why your skin produces it, how it behaves in different skin types, and how to manage it effectively to achieve glowing, healthy skin.
What Is Sebum?
Sebum is an oily, waxy substance produced by your body’s sebaceous glands, which are located in hair follicles across your skin. These glands are most abundant on the face and scalp, particularly in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), which is why this area is more prone to oiliness and breakouts.
Contrary to popular belief, sebum isn’t the enemy—it’s essential. Sebum creates a natural barrier on the skin’s surface, helping to:
- Prevent moisture loss
- Protect against environmental pollutants
- Inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria
- Maintain the skin’s acid mantle and pH balance
Think of sebum as your skin’s built-in moisturizer and bodyguard.
What Is Sebum Made Of?
Sebum is composed of a complex mix of lipids, including:
- Triglycerides and fatty acids: about 57%
- Wax esters: about 26%
- Squalene: about 12%
- Cholesterol esters and cholesterol: about 4-5%
These lipids are naturally produced by the body and work together to keep the skin supple and shielded from environmental damage. Squalene, in particular, has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from oxidative stress.
How Sebum Production Works
Sebum production is regulated by hormones, especially androgens, like testosterone. During puberty, hormonal activity increases dramatically, which is why teens often experience oily skin and breakouts. However, hormone fluctuations throughout life (menstruation, pregnancy, menopause, or even stress) can also impact sebum levels.
The sebaceous glands operate like this:
- Sebaceous glands within the hair follicle produce sebum.
- Sebum travels up the follicle and is secreted onto the skin’s surface.
- It mixes with sweat, dead skin cells, and other lipids to form the acid mantle, which protects the skin from dehydration and bacteria.
Sebum and Skin Types
Everyone produces sebum, but the amount and behavior of that sebum can vary significantly between individuals. Understanding how sebum impacts your skin type is crucial to choosing the right skincare routine.
1. Oily Skin
- Sebum Production: High
- Characteristics: Shiny appearance, enlarged pores, frequent breakouts
- Needs: Oil control, pore-cleansing, balancing products
2. Dry Skin
- Sebum Production: Low
- Characteristics: Flaky, tight, dull-looking skin
- Needs: Nourishing, lipid-rich moisturizers to mimic the role of sebum
3. Combination Skin
- Sebum Production: High in T-zone, lower in cheeks
- Characteristics: Oily forehead/nose/chin, dry or normal cheeks
- Needs: Targeted care—oil-control products in oily areas and hydrating formulas elsewhere
4. Acne-Prone Skin
- Sebum Production: Often excessive or imbalanced
- Characteristics: Frequent breakouts, congestion, blackheads or whiteheads
- Needs: Clarifying and sebum-regulating treatments that don’t strip the skin
Sebum and Acne: What’s the Connection?
Sebum isn’t inherently bad, but when there’s too much of it or it gets trapped in the pores, problems can arise. Here’s how:
- Excess sebum mixes with dead skin cells.
- This combination clogs the pore.
- The clogged pore becomes a breeding ground for C. acnes bacteria.
- The immune system reacts, leading to inflammation, redness, and acne.
Managing sebum production—not eliminating it—is key to reducing breakouts. Over-cleansing or drying out the skin can actually backfire, as the skin may produce even more oil to compensate.
What Causes Sebum Imbalance?
Several internal and external factors can lead to too much—or too little—sebum:
1. Hormonal Fluctuations
Hormones like androgens stimulate sebum production, which is why puberty, menstruation, and pregnancy often cause increased oiliness or acne.
2. Genetics
Your genes play a big role in how active your sebaceous glands are. If oily skin runs in your family, chances are you’ll have it too.
3. Diet
Diets high in sugar, dairy, and refined carbs may increase oil production in some people. Staying hydrated and eating a balanced diet support overall skin health.
4. Skincare Products
Harsh cleansers, alcohol-based toners, and over-exfoliation can strip your skin of natural oils, triggering more sebum production.
5. Climate
Hot, humid environments stimulate the skin to produce more oil. In contrast, dry, cold air can lead to underproduction, causing dry skin.
How to Manage Sebum the Smart Way
Healthy, balanced sebum levels are achievable with the right approach. Here are our favorite Jil Goorman Beauty-approved strategies:
1. Cleanse Gently—But Consistently
Cleansing helps remove excess oil, dirt, and bacteria. Use a gentle, sulfate-free cleanser twice daily. For oily skin, look for ingredients like salicylic acid or tea tree oil to help dissolve excess oil and decongest pores.
Avoid over-cleansing, which can trigger your skin to produce more oil as a defense mechanism.
2. Don’t Skip Moisturizer
Even oily skin needs hydration. The key is using the right type of moisturizer. Look for lightweight, oil-free, or gel-based formulas with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide.
3. Exfoliate (But Not Too Much)
Gentle exfoliation 1-3 times per week can help keep pores clear of buildup. Use chemical exfoliants like AHAs (glycolic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid) to target clogged pores without causing microtears.
4. Balance with Toners and Serums
Use balancing toners or serums with ingredients like:
- Niacinamide: Regulates oil production
- Zinc: Reduces inflammation
- Green tea extract: Antioxidant and oil-controlling
5. Don’t Pick or Over-Extract
Picking at oily spots or pimples can lead to inflammation, scarring, and increased oil production. Instead, treat blemishes with spot treatments and let your skin heal naturally.
How to Support Sebum Balance Internally
Topical treatments can go a long way, but true skin health is also built from within. Consider these habits:
1. Stay Hydrated
Dehydration can signal your skin to produce more oil. Drinking enough water keeps skin cells plump and reduces excess oil production.
2. Eat Skin-Friendly Foods
Incorporate foods rich in:
- Omega-3s (salmon, flaxseeds)
- Antioxidants (berries, leafy greens)
- Zinc (pumpkin seeds, legumes)
- Vitamin A (sweet potatoes, carrots)
3. Manage Stress
High stress levels increase cortisol, which can trigger sebum production and breakouts. Incorporate mindfulness, exercise, or other stress-relieving practices.
4. Get Enough Sleep
Lack of sleep can throw off hormonal balance, leading to more sebum production and inflammation.
Myth-Busting Sebum
Let’s clear up a few common myths about sebum:
Myth: You should dry out oily skin to reduce sebum.
Truth: This backfires. Drying out the skin causes it to produce more oil to compensate.
Myth: Only teens deal with sebum issues.
Truth: Sebum production continues into adulthood and can fluctuate throughout your life.
Myth: If you have oily skin, you don’t need moisturizer.
Truth: All skin needs hydration—even oily skin. The right moisturizer can actually reduce sebum production.
Jil Goorman Beauty: Support for Every Skin Type
At Jil Goorman Beauty, we create skincare with the science of sebum in mind. Whether you're dealing with oily skin, acne, or imbalances caused by stress or hormones, we offer products and solutions that support your skin, not strip it.
We’re Here to Help You
Sebum isn’t your enemy—it’s a crucial component of your skin’s health and function. The key is learning how to work with your skin, not against it. By understanding what sebum does and how to keep it in balance, you can achieve clearer, smoother, more radiant skin.
Whether your skin is oily, dry, or somewhere in between, Jil Goorman Beauty is here to help you navigate your journey toward balance and confidence—one product and one insight at a time.
Want Personalized Advice?
Book a skincare consultation with one of our licensed professionals to get a custom plan for managing sebum and supporting healthy skin from the inside out.